Cole’s – Los Angeles Battle For French Dip Supremacy

Mod B has sent Retro Roadmap Reporter Keith V out again to cover the L.A. scene and he's got two classic dip joints ready to duke it out! Give him a listen then make up your own mind next time you're in downtown LA!

“Where's The Beef?” - Los Angeles Battle For French Dip Supremacy

by Keith Valcourt

It's an age old debate.  Which came first?  No, not the chicken or the egg!  Everyone knows it was the chicken.  No, the egg. Argh.

The great debate is over which downtown Los Angeles restaurant was the original creator of the French Dip sandwich. Two eateries lay claim to the crown.

In this corner is Cole's French Dip, located on East Sixth street in the old Pacific Electric Building. Cole's first opened its doors in 1908 as a public house feeding the working class of downtown.

And in the other corner Philippe's (aka Philippe The Original) located at the edge of Chinatown at the corner of Alameda and Ord Street. Opened by French emigrant Philippe Mathieu in 1908.

Both restaurants claim to have come up with the delicious sandwich.

And while history shows no clear winner as to who actually invented the concoction of fresh bread, sliced beef and Au Jus, and I'm no history professor you're gonna have to settle for which one I (West Coast Retro Roadmapologist Keith Valcourt) think is the best.

I traveled Downtown and compared both Cole's and Philippe's based on several categories including Location, Decor, Taste and Price to declare a clear winner in the “Battle of the Beef.”

Round One:  Decor

Cole's:  Has the vibe of a cool workingman's pub frozen in time.  The dark lighting and old school wooden booths make it the perfect place to take your mistress to lunch (if you have one.)

Cole's was remodeled a couple years back but don't worry it has maintained much of the same charm that made it famous.  The only thing I could notice that was updated were the floors.  I loved the globe lights and collection of black and white photographs telling the story of the Pacific Electric Railroad and the thousands of folks who used to eat here when it was a public house.

The server was an affable hipster dressed in a old tyme vest.  I later found out he was also the bartender.  The lack of business (we were the only lunchers) made it easy for him to jockey between duties.

Philippe's:  Is a classic cafeteria complete with a row of older female counter servers wear vintage looking uniforms (they changed from Beige to Blue three years ago) who are most likely to call you “Hon” or “Sweetie”.

Place your order and watch the magic unfold in front of you.  When it comes time to pay remember to put the money on the tray (servers can't touch cash) and be sure to tip a buck or two.  Then grab a seat either at one of the several “Community Style” tables or a half high backed wooden booths.  The place is full of natural light.  The main room features a row of still working phone booths and vintage photos while the back room is covered in train and circus memorabilia.

Winner: This one is a draw
You have to base your choice on personal preference.   If you like more of a bar/pub feel or prefer not to be seen while you scarf down your sandwich then Cole's in for you for it's dark decor.    But if you're into a campy cafeteria style eatery complete uniform wearing servers and train memorabilia (not to mention lots of natural light) you gotta go with Philippe's.

Round Two:  Location

Cole's:  Cole's is in the heart of  the city in what is now known as a less than desirable area. The street is grimy and gritty (classic Downtown L.A.)  I had to traverse several homeless people while making my way to the entrance.  One shopping cart pusher was screaming at an invisible kid (or me) as I walked in.  Parking is a challenge.  There are meters on nearby streets but it took me three or four trips around the block to get one.

Philippe's:  Philippe's is a free standing building just steps from Chinatown and a few blocks from historic Olvera street. The best part is they feature two large parking lots with free parking for customers.  The lots are also closely monitored by security/parking attendants so you can have a worry free meal. The area is buzzing with tourists and feels safe.

Winner:  Philippe's
The free parking lots, the open environment and closeness to other interesting L.A. Landmarks makes it a no brainer.   Plus security guards keeping an eye on things in Downtown L.A. Is always a good thing.

Round Three:  Taste:

Cole's:

The bun is perfect.  Soft and fresh baked.  The sides are standard. Not bad.  Not great.  Classic Cole Slaw and fries.  The Beef is thick but sort of bland.  Even after adding extra Au Jus it wasn't anything special.  Granted these aren't “Steak Ums” but it was heavy instead of hearty.  Now granted, I don't drink, so maybe it would taste better washed down with a pint instead of the Lemonade I choose.  The hot “Atomic” mustard lived up to its name.  It came on quick and stayed with you.  But it also had an acidic after taste I did not like.  The sandwich came with an “Atomic Pickle” that packed the same kick and aftertaste of Cole's mustard.

Philippe's: 

The bun is just out of the oven fresh.  Actually still warm with just the right amount of juice soaked into it.  The sides are also fresh.  No fries available but the slaw is creamy and the potato salad is country picnic perfect.  The beef melts in your mouth.  My god this is easily the greatest sandwich I've ever eaten!  The hot mustard is perfect.  It comes on quick with a tinge of horseradish but does not linger.  The pickles are cool, crisp and refreshing.  I washed it all down happily with homemade lemonade.

Winner:  Philippe's
Simply put this may be the greatest sandwich I've ever had. Ever.

Round Four: Price: 

Cole's:  You can get the sandwich in three different sizes (Little, Skinny & Big Dipper) with prices ranging from $6.88 to $9.37.  The Sides are $3.19 to $4.10 each.  Lemonade is $3.00.

Philippe's:  One size sandwich (same size as Cole's Big Dipper) $6.75.  Sides are $1.30 each.  Lemonade just $0.75.

Winner:  Philippe's
Their standard sandwich is the same size as Cole's Big Dipper.   Yet it costs less than Cole's smallest sandwich.  Then you can get 2 sides and for what you pay at Cole's. And the lemonade is less than a third the price.  Philippe's gives you more bang for your buck.

The Champion: Hands down it's Philippe's.

The food as better, the prices are more affordable, the vibe is more kitschy  and did I mention the free parking?  I did?  Good.  While both joints are visit worthy, if you only have time for one French Dip Sandwich then Philippe's is the place.

Philippe's (Aka Philippe The Original)

1001 N. Alameda St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 628-3781

Cole's French Dip
118 East 6th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013
(213) 622-4090