Myrtle Beach SC – A Retro Roadmap Reader Report

Retro Roadmap pal and reader TikiSoo sent us this retro report from Myrtle Beach, SC back in March - and since the beach season is now upon us, what a great time to share her story. (Mod Betty Sez YAY The Gay Dolphin is Still There!)

One of us is a member of the 50 States Marathoners, so we found ourselves traveling to Myrtle Beach in February. This is a good deal for our family, as our runner is only absent about 4 hours and the rest of the time is devoted to exploring.

If your pooch is part of the family, finding pet friendly resort hotels isn’t unusual in Myrtle Beach. We chose the Ocean View, part of the Oceana chain of resorts because they had an indoor pool - not all do -and it’s too cold in Feb to swim in the ocean. Be aware many hotels in the area require a “non refundable deposit” upon booking and I had big discussions with my credit card company before allowing the charge. I was assured if the hotel did not meet my standards (after all, it’s the south and insects can be an issue) my credit card would stand by my decision and refund my deposit. The hotel was sparkling clean with an ocean view balcony, beach rights, a kitchen in every room & the fluffiest towels! A happy bargain for $70/night, pet fee included.

The beach itself turned out to be the greatest attraction-we played in the surf & sand and from our balcony thrilled to the dramatic sun and moon rise each day. On the south end of the beach, this hotel is closer to the National Park and we saw flocks of pelicans fly by and groups of dolphins swimming close to the breakers early in the morning. Horseback riding is allowed in Dec-Feb, a fun and different way to enjoy the beach if you like exercise.

Myrtle Beach’s vintage Herschell Spillman carousel has been relocated to boutique catastrophe “Broadway on the Beach” and ghastly repainted to resemble a fiberglass nightmare in pink & purple. BOTB offers insipid chain stores like Yankee Candle and Gap, but for that person who hears Kiss and immediately thinks of a nice rich cup of Joe, there’s the Kiss Coffeehouse. Even the toddler in the stroller can’t believe the absurdity of the giant boot on the corner.

The “strip” of Ocean Blvd is much more enjoyable for retroroadmappers sensibility. The hotels are like a time capsule ranging from small 50’s era motels to Miami Beach type highrises to “resort complexes” for those of you who hate the outdoors. I suspect most if not all are a pleasant stay no matter what amenities you’re looking for. You’ll even find a few googie style buildings along the strip such as Lulu’s Café, where these two ladies enjoyed mimosa on the porch Sunday morning.

The restaurants can be a bit troublesome, especially if you like your steaks rare or your seafood any way but fried. You better drink Coors or Bud because there isn’t much else. You get what they serve you and the emphasis is on cheap fast & easy. This is the south where tobacco is a livelihood for many, so be forewarned - restaurants allow smoking!

Rt 17, parallel to Ocean Blvd is populated with giant beach gift shops like Whale’s & Pacific. If you just gotta have an Elvis beach towel or forget your bathing suit, this is the place. You’ll find classic cocoanut monkeys alongside tons of classless made in China novelties like marijuana ash trays & lighters shaped like a girl’s legs. (guess where the flame comes out?) There’s one on every corner and the only good thing I can say about them is they sport elaborate neon artistry.

Instead, my retro friend, let me take you to the Gay Dolphin Gift Cove on Ocean Blvd. (Mod Betty says, "OMG! I LOVE the Gay Dolphin! totally have that post card AND have gone to the top of that tower! SO GLAD it's still there!!")

This is a huge wonderful gift shop present since the dawn of Myrtle Beach’s inception in the early 40’s. It’s tough to tell how many floors this place has, it’s a labyrinth of tacky weird crap piled high on shelves and hanging from the walls & ceiling. I came across several family members dazed and lost in different areas. Piling new stock on top of old, it’s a true treasure hunt rooting out the dusty old stock leftovers. Although, some of the new Chinese chotchke is not to be believed…what the hell ARE these dog/bride/angels?

I scored an authentic embroidered “Susie” name patch for my bowling shirt stapled on a parking ticket from 1959. The cashier had no idea what to charge me for it since no one has ever bought one since 1959. A wall of mixed new & vintage leftover postcards yielded this great 60’s chrome view of the Gay Dolphin and a pin up gal wrapped in fishnet for 75¢ each. (Wish I could have taken more photos, but the staff was militantly against it.)

So there you have it, folks! No matter what season it looks like there are still some hidden vintage gems amidst the current version of tacky in Myrtle Beach, SC!